A bravo solution as a modified door installation
Since i have a 9′ garage ceiling and two 7′ door openings, when installing the doors i opted as an 8′ track to provoke the tracks closer to the ceiling and out of the work area. This resources the door has to go upright a foot before it starts back, then traditional openers won’t work. For 20 yrs. I’ve been manually operating the door while occasionally looking as an opener solution. The Liftmaster 3800 was the door answer, and the “laser parking assist” the spotting answer. (3″ bumper to door and 3″ grille to workbench, no more tennis ball from the ceiling)
It’s been in service a week and works flawlessly. The quality of the operating unit, cable tension monitor, and hook appears very high. The block unit, remote, and light a little fewer then but seem adequate as the job.(few moving parts). The instructions are plain and complete. And it comes with sufficient fasteners as most installations.
My installation was a little lengthly because i’m then picky. (ran a new outlet through the ceiling to get 4″ from the power unit, the car park assist comes with 8′ of bell wire, needed 20′ – once more through the ceiling, the tension monitor needed a spacer block, cut one to fit and painted to match the finished and textured wall, and then on) the hook only needs a 1/2″ hole instead of 3/4″ if you can perforate accurately. If i did it once more i wouldn’t install the hook. The door is insulated and very heavy, i don’t think schwarzenegger could ban it without the spring assist.
The only problem i had ended upright being a programming issue of my own making. After setting the open travel limit to the top of the opportunity – 7′, the door would open but not close. The advice troubleshooting section indicated the trouble was the cable tension monitor. I speculation this not the problem since it’s roller was 2″ from the drum as recommended and it was under tension with the door open and closed. After 20 mins. Of reprogramming, checking connections and rereading instructions, staring at the monitor when closing diagnosed the problem. When the door starts down there is a jerk which slackens the cable as a fraction of a second allowing the tension monitor to close if the door is close to the top but not fully open. Reprogramming to 8′ pulls the cable away from the block a couple of inches then during the jerk the monitor movement is not sufficient to close. An extra foot of door travel, but it works great!
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